A walk through outlaw and dragon country

The walk starts from the scattered hamlet of Amulree, known for its striking white church. From the north end of Amulree, where the A822 crosses the River Braan, take the private road signed as a footpath to Kenmore. This soon passes Lochan Cottages and bears left to pass Lochan Lodge, becoming a rougher track as it crosses a cattle grid and heads around the north side of Glen Quaich towards Wester Kinloch Farm.
This route is part of the long-distance Rob Roy Way, which runs for 79 miles from Drymen, Stirling, to Pitlochry, Perth, on paths and tracks used by the outlaw Rob Roy MacGregor in the 17th and 18th centuries. Beyond the farm the track skirts the north side of Loch Freuchie. Across the water the Rob Roy Way can be made out coming down the steep-sided cleft of Glen Lochan.
Pass a cottage, a lone Scots pine and another cattle grid to cross open farmland. When the track forks, keep on the lower branch, passing a stone barn. As you climb gently between some drystone dykes, Loch Freuchie comes into view. The remains of a crannog, an artificial island which would have provided a safe house during the Iron Age, can be seen in the loch. According to legend the island was originally inhabited by a fearsome dragon. As is usual with these stories, a foolish young man named Fraoch followed the request of a lady to gather rowan berries from the island. He managed to complete the task and evaded the dragon but the lady then insisted that nothing would please her except to be presented with the rowan tree itself. Alas on his return visit the young lad uprooted his prize only to be ripped limb from limb by the awakened dragon. Needless to say, there is no archaeological or historical evidence to support the story. Although it did not much help Fraoch, rowan trees are still regarded as symbols of good luck.
Continuing on the track and passing through the gates, woodland replaces grazing land. You’ll soon see the head of the loch, with good views up Glen Quaich. The farm here has worked to increase the biodiversity of the habitat, making this a good spot for birdwatching. The track now passes the ruins of an old settlement, a spot which can be muddy underfoot. After a beautiful old barn on the right, curve down towards Turrerich Farm.
Climb the stile and go through the farmyard, and to the left of a bungalow to follow the track round the head of the loch. There is a lovely old stone bridge over the River Quaich before the track reaches the road. Turn left and follow this minor road all the way back to Amulree, with good views over the water for much of the journey. Although a tiny village today, this was a thriving community before the 19th century when land was cleared to make way for sheep. On one single day, 300 crofters left on the same ship bound for Canada. After a three-month voyage they settled in part of Ontario, naming their new townships Amulree and Glenquaich.
Route About 8 miles (3hrs) on waymarked tracks and a quiet minor road. OS Explorer 379 Dunkeld, Aberfeldy and Glen Almond
Start/finish Amulree, about halfway along the Crieff to Birnam road (A822)
Getting there Until mid-October, the seasonal Ring of Breadalbane Explorer bus service calls at Amulree as well as Aberfeldy, Crieff, Comrie, Lochearnhead and Killin
Walk A peaceful straightforward loop of Loch Freuchie in the wilds of Glen Quaich, home in the coming months to migrating geese.
Try Perthshire: 40 Town & Country Walks by Paul and Helen Webster (£6.99 Pocket Mountains). Buy from the Times Bookshop. Discount for Times+ members.